Throughout the walk I would hear men shouting "doli, doli." It turns out they are offering to carry you up or down the stairs. A seat is attached to one or two bamboo poles, and two or four men (I guess depending on how heavy you are) carry you. On the walk down I decided to count - I passed 114 people being carried. Not one of them was a Westerner (I did count 11 non-Indians as I walked down) and not one of them was a Jain pilgrim dressed in white. Mostly they were overweight Indian tourists.
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