Thursday, April 15, 2010

4/9 through 4/14 on Perhentian Island

I am back in the land of internet, in Cameron Highlands, after six days on the beautiful islands of Perhentian Besar (big) and Perhentian Kecil (small), but my story actually starts the day before I arrived.

4/8:
I took a early morning bus from Cherating to Kuala Terrengganu, arriving around noon. While I was checking into my hotel, I realized my legs really itched. It turned out I was attacked the night before by bed bugs, counting 60 bites on my two legs (I've always liked to count). It's a little funny, if you can call it that, because it was the third night I was in Cherating.

4/9:
I met a very nice man named Yann, from France, on the boat from the mainland to Pulau Perhentian Besar. Since he had a guide book, and didn't mind me tagging along, I followed him. We found a couple of nice bungalows about 20 meters from the beach. They were a bit beyond my budget at $19 a day, but I'm on a beautiful island 20 meters from the beach!

Pulau Perhentian Besar (meaning: Big Perhentian Island)

It turns out there are no roads on either island, and very few foot paths. It is mostly jungle, some beaches, and a few spots where bungalows or nicer accommodations are built. I decided to go for a walk to the other beach, about 25 minutes through the jungle. I was on the path no longer than 30 seconds when an alligator crawled out of the jungle. It looked like an alligator - it was at least 6 feet long. It actually more closely resembled a Komodo dragon. I ran to get Yann, who told me it was only a monitor lizard, and was harmless. Yea, right.

My bungalow on Pulau Perhentian Besar

More on Islam:
Chapter 112 is considered the essence of the Qur'an: "God is one, the eternal God. He begot none, nor was he begotten. None is equal to him."

The Hadith
(the second most important book in Islam):
During the life of the Prophet, there was no regular compilation of his life and acts, though many of his companions wrote collections of the words of the Prophet. There were some records kept by the companions, and many of the companions memorized the Prophet's words and actions, and passed these on through their oral traditions. After Mohammad's death, especially with the spread of Islam and the gradual passing away of the companions, centers of learning were created to preserve their history and practices, and to teach the new converts, though these were individual compilations (the second period of compilation). It was not until the period of the disciples of the companions (the third period - 100 to 200 years after Mohammad's revelation) that regular compilations occurred. Islamic law started during this time period. The "golden age" of the Hadith occurred during the 4th period of compilations (200 to 300 years after Mohammad's revelation), the disciples of the disciples, when actual rules were framed and canons devised.


Quote from Brida, by Paulo Coelho
:
"Sometimes, certain of God's blessings arrive by shattering all the windows." (p. 114) I really like this quote, for often, those events that feel so bad end up being your best teachers.

4/10:
I rented a mask and snorkel the day before, but was pretty unimpressed with the coral to the right, so at sunrise, I headed to the left. First I disturbed a string ray buried in the sand. Then I saw a shark. It was only a reef shark, and I was told that they are harmless, but it was still three to four feet long! So that was my initiation into "shark world."

Laundry and beach soccer at sunset

Two lines from a poem by W. B. Yeats, in Brida, by Paulo Coelho:
"I have spread my dreams under your feet;
Tread softly because you tread on my dreams." (p. 176)

4/11:
I moved to Pulau Perhentian Kecil (the small island). I am staying on Coral Bay. I found a bungalow for $13 a night. It is not as nice as my previous bungalow, but it is right on the beach facing the ocean, and I like the atmosphere here much more - no resorts, more of a back packer crowd.

Pulau Perhentian Kecil (Small Perhentian Island)

View from the porch of my bungalow on the small island

Jesse, my next door neighbor

I was at my new bungalow for about 10 minutes when I met Jesse, my next door neighbor. She was going on an all-day snorkeling trip, and invited me along.

Snorkeling trip my first day on the small island, and a little map of the islands

There were eight of us on the boat: 4 Malaysians, 2 from Great Britain (Daniel and Amelia, or maybe Angela - something starting with "A"), Jesse and me. We went to five different snorkeling locations. The first spot was "shark reef," where we saw three sharks (two very large ones, or one very large one twice), one sting ray, and some very spectacular coral. I also found a mask and snorkel in the coral (a good sign). The sharks may have freaked out the Malaysians, for they never got back into the water, and went back early. The second location was equally beautiful, with millions of fish that will eat bread right out of your hand. Then on to "turtle spot," where I saw no turtles (but the English couple saw two), then lunch, the lighthouse (I counted a school of 80 barracudas - I like to count), and lastly, "Romantic Bay." It was an incredible day.

Feeding the fish

Quote from Brida, by Paulo Coelho:
This was advice from a a spiritual teacher as Brida was judging another: "Play your part and don't worry about what others do. Believe that God also speaks to them, and that they are as engaged as you are in discovering the meaning of life." (p. 187)

4/12:
I LOVE SNORKELING! 2 reasons: 1) It is spectacularly beautiful with the variety and density of fish and coral, and 2) It is the only cool place in this really hot environment.

Today I went snorkeling four times, spending five hours in the water. On my third swim I saw a huge grouper (I read they can get up to nine feet long and 1300 pounds!). And on my last swim of the day at sunset, I saw a small shark, then a large shark, then a really large turtle. The fish don't seem to be bothered by us humans. You can go right up to them and swim with them. I guess that is a good sign that there haven't been human predators for a while (or a bad sign that they are really dumb animals).

This is where I ate most of my meals - Mama's Cafe.

View while eating breakfast from Mama's

Sufism:
The word is derived from either the word "safa," meaning purity, or "shabus-safa," meaning people of the bench (There were Muslims at the time of Mohammad who spent all of their time in worship, and would sit on the benches of the porch of Mohammad's mosque. The Prophet fed them and commanded his companions to do the same.), or from the word "suf," meaning wool (wearing woolen garments by ascetics was a sign of voluntary poverty and renunciation of the world and all of it's pleasures). (p. 126)

The Prophet is said to have received a two-fold revelation - one embodied the contents of the Qur'an, the other within his heart. The Sufism of these early Muslims was characterized by renunciation of all worldly pleasures and and intense fear of Allah and the day of judgments. The early Sufis were strict ascetics, with poverty as the ideal of their religious life. (p. 126-7)

The Sufis believed in "Wahadatul wajud," the oneness of existence. The human soul is a particle of the divine soul. Love for God is true love, while all other love is illusory. Material substance are just like pictures, leaving no real existence. Thus, they believed, we should only attach ourselves to God. (p. 128)

Quote from Brida, by Paulo Coelho:
"Being human means having doubts and yet still continuing on your path." (p. 236)

4/13:
I learned about sea lice today. I first experienced them while snorkeling in Flores. I felt all this stinging on my body, but thought it must be salt water in my pours. Jesse explained to me today that it is sea lice. They don't leave any lasting effect, they are just annoying. It seems they are worse in the early morning. I went snorkeling three times today, all to the right (I'd seen enough sharks to the left). On my afternoon swim, I took a deeper sea route on the way out, then hugged the shore on the way back. That way I see more, and if I get tired on the way back, at least I am close to shore to stop and rest. Also, I like swimming in all the little nooks and crannies. I was in one of these very shallow inlets when a shark swam by. There was no way out, so he (I assume he was a "he") had to turn around and swim by me again. I didn't take my eyes off him (or her) for a long time. I swam back a little faster than usual.

More on Islam - Children's Duty to Parents:
"Once a companion of the Prophet asked him to whom he should show kindness. The Prophet replied, 'Your mother.' He asked who came next and the Prophet again replied, 'Your mother.' He asked the Prophet yet again who came next. The Prophet replied, 'Your mother." When he asked for a fourth time, only then did the Prophet reply, 'your father.'" (p. 141)

(This is sort of like the "location, location, location" story)

Quote from Brida, by Paulo Coelho:
"The first road to God is prayer, the second is joy." (p. 252)

4/14:
Jesse and I rented a two-person kayak today, and went out for a couple of hours, hitting three beaches for some very nice snorkeling.

At 6:30PM I went out for my last snorkel, to my favorite spot on the left. Just when I got to "magical mushroom land," where the coral resemble huge mushrooms as big as small hills, a medium size shark passed me by on my right. Then ten seconds later a large momma shark with her little shark cub passed me by on the left. I thought, "this is as good a sign as any to turn around." I swam back quickly, swimming next to the underwater cliff wall near the shore, when a fourth shark passed me. A few minutes later a fifth shark passed me, circle around me, and passed again. Now I am pretty freaked. I kept saying to myself, "These are reef sharks. They are harmless."

I have always been freaked out by sharks, ever since I saw the movie "Jaws." I'm not even that comfortable in lakes (as soon as it would get quiet, I would hear that background music from the movie). So I have to ask myself, why did I keep going back into the water, and swimming alone. I don't really have an answer, though I know it is my nature to never give up. I'm a little compulsive about that. Maybe it's something about confronting my fears. Or maybe it's a little pride thing: no fucking shark is going to keep me from doing my new found passion.

Every evening Jesse and I would eat barbecue - choice of shark, lobster, squid, or mackerel (I should have eaten more shark).

Jesse (from Australia) and me

Sunset the last evening on the small island

Maybe the last on Islam (at least from this book), concerning neighbors:
"Nobody can be a believer, said the Prophet, if his neighbors pass the night hungry while he has his stomach full." (p. 144)

Quote from Brida, by Paulo Coelho:
"Everyone, at least once in east incarnation, possesses the secret of the universe." (p. 273)

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