3/17: Mike's Village

The day didn't start so well. I was told yesterday by Mike that the local government would not allow our home-stay in Mike's village, so we had to scramble to get hotel rooms. Mike had already gotten approval, but just verbally. When it came to the approval in writing, it was rejected. Mike explained that even he didn't understand. But with elections coming up, the local government decided they needed approval of the district government, and our troubles began. Mike was so apologetic, and even embarrassed for the strict government control, first saying one thing and then doing another. So we decided to make a day trip out of it instead. It was actually a good travel lesson about expectations. One of my favorite things about travel are these unexpected occurrences, which just reminds me of how little I understand about what is going on. So it became a "teachable moment" for the students.

Mike and a neighbor, who met us as we got off the bus. The old man spoke French to our chaperones, David and Liz.

Outside the entry way to Mike's home, a neighbor was cooking.

The students, seated in Mike's kitchen, the largest room in the house, greeting the entrance of the American War veterans.

During my sabbatical year last year, I met the Evergreen School 8th grade class to lead their trip in Vietnam, and then stayed in Mike's village after the Evergreen students left. I met Mike's father, a veteran of the American war. I asked Mike if his father could come and talk to my students. He did even better, bringing seven veterans together to share their experience. It truly was a sharing, for the veterans wanted to hear from the Evergreen adults and what their experience of the war was.

The seven veterans - Mike's father is in the front on the right.

The man in the back row, second from the right, being the eldest, spoke first. He is 88 years old and a veteran of both the French war and the American war. He told us that he had met Americans only during the war, so he was very pleased and proud to see the next generation of Americans. His wish was for the Vietnamese and American people to do everything possible to make this world better.

The next man to speak (far left back row) told us of his experience fighting against American soldiers in the province of Hoi Anh. I asked him why he joined the army - was it for communism or nationalism? (All the vets volunteered, by the way.) He told us that the reason he joined the army was first - love of his nation. He trusted the army and followed the calling of the government to join. It wasn't compulsory to join. They all knew they were going to die, but they joined anyway. He told us that during the war he hated American soldiers, but now he sees Americans as friends.

The final person to speak (far left, front row) told us about his suffering from Agent Orange. He joined the army in 1968 and fought in the Mekong delta. "At first the soldiers didn't know about Agent Orange. we saw orange and green smoke coming down from the helicopters. We were hiding in the forest and couldn't escape." He gets $60 a month from the government. I asked if he is still suffering from Agent Orange. He replied that he is still suffering, but from being an old man. He went on to say, "I hope that when you hear our stories, you are willing to share with others how much we suffered. The war ended a long time ago. Today American and Vietnam governments have close relations. We must leave the past and look towards the future for closer relations."

It was very strange for me to sit there and hear about strategies to kill American soldiers. I believe with my whole heart that it was such a healing process for everyone. Even though my students were born much after the war had ended, many of them had voiced their feeling of guilt about American actions in Vietnam. For them to experience such a warm welcoming from these veterans, and hear the veterans' wishes about moving beyond the past and working towards a shared future, felt so good. And for the veterans, they had never met Americans before, so it was a healing for them as well.

Group shot with the veterans

Afterward, we shared a meal together. We all sat on the floor (students in the kitchen and adults in the living room) and ate what many said was their best meal in Vietnam.

There was a lot of toasting in the adult room.

Trip-leaders Eli and Alicia, with the veteran of both the French war and the American war.

Mike's wife Hai and his brother Ha. Yesterday Mike and Hai had to get to the local market at 5AM to purchase all the food. Hai took the day off from work to cook. She cooked all morning long for our lunch, then cleaned and immediately started cooking all afternoon for our dinner. A number of neighbors were also helping out, as well as Hai's recently married brother and sister-in-law, whose wedding I was at earlier in the trip. I don't believe any of us will forget Mike and Hai's graciousness and hospitality.

After lunch we divided into 3 groups. A small groups of students, whose NGO is looking into medical issues in Vietnam, went with the doctor chaperones to deliver 4 boxes of medical supplies they had gathered up from their hospitals to donate to the village clinic and hospital. Ha took one group of students on a tour around the village. Mike took another group of students to visit the local school. We all gathered in the back of this truck for our ride to the school. By the way, the truck is started by cranking the engine by hand.

Vietnamese students as we entered the school

Anna and her new friends

Jaclyn and her new friends

Ankush and his new friends

Some of the boys ready to perform a song

playing a blindfold game together

While the students continued having fun together, I was ushered to a meeting with the teachers and the head of school, to share my thoughts about the Vietnamese educational system, which I know nothing about, and to explain about American education, which I know little about, having spent 23 of my 24 years teaching at Evergreen school.

Hot pot dinner back at Mike and Hai's house. A boiling bowl of broth flavored with cinnamon, star anise, sugar, and other stuff, then we ate piles of chicken, tofu, vegetables, shrimp, and squid. I was in shrimp and squid heaven.

Chaperone Paul with Hai, saying good bye. Though the day didn't start so well it turned out being the best day of the trip.