Thursday, May 20, 2010

5/18 through 5/20: Luang Prabang, Laos

5/18: I arrived in Laos, in Luang Prabang, after a 50 minute flight from Hanoi. Luang Prabang is located at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers, which creates a peninsula where the majority of the town is situated.

Being a history teacher, I feel pretty naked, not knowing anything about Laos. So here's a little history on Luang Prabang: There has been a thriving culture here since 500 BC. The first Lao kingdom was founded here in 1353. Though the capitol moved to Vientiene in 1545, Luang Prabang remained the source of monarchial power. In 1887, after a destructive attack by the Black Flag wing of the Chinese Haw, the kingdom chose to accept French protection. The French allowed the monarchy to remain. In 1975, with the communist Pathet Lao in control, the monarchy was disolved. The last king and queen were imprisoned in a cave, and due to inadaquate food and medical attention, they died there between 1977 and 1981.
Luang Prabang is not what I expected. It is very cute, with French style architecture and manicured gardens.
Here is the front of my guest house - Xieng Mouane Guest House
My balcony

The view of my garden
Tourism has taken over this sweet, little town. You can dine right on the Mekong (and eat pizza or maybe even French food, I don't know - I don't eat there).
I eat here, near the morning market

Noodle soup for breakfast

Morning market (mangosteens only 60 cents a pound)
H'mong night market
The first day I just walked around, getting my bearings. I have to learn how to travel again, having had all my days planned throughout the Vietnam Evergreen School trip. I climbed the hill in the center of town, where Wat Pa Phon Phao is situated. This is the top of Wat Pa Phon Phao.
View of Luang Prabang and the Mekong River from Wat Pa Phon Phao


Another wat - I don't know the name. There are wats and orange robed monks everywhere.

Monks in front of the National Museum

5/19: I rented a bicycle and saw a lot more wats.
Monk laundry
I got lost (to be expected) and ended up going the exact opposite direction that I had intended, though I did run into this little waterfall, so had a little "cool down." It is so hot here. It doesn't actually feel so hot, but I have been sweating from every pore in my body.
Wat Pu Si (an unfortunate name)
The walls of Wat Pu Si are painted with two rows of pictures - the bottom row showing all the images of hell, and the top row show images of the life of Buddha.
Wat Xieng Thong, the oldest wat in Luang Prabang, built in 1560. It remained under the King's patronage until 1975.
Dragon head
Young monk ringing the bell

5/20: All day tour

In the morning we headed up river to the temple cave, but first we stopped at a traditional village. The village is situated on the banks of the Mekong. At its center is a beautiful wat, surrounded by traditional houses, but the entire water front is taken up by little tourist stalls, selling weavings.

Mekong view

Entrance to the cave

In the cave

This cave has been a place of worship since the 8th century, but only became Buddhist in the 16th century. It received the patronage from the king for 400 years, until the communist take over in 1975, when the king and his family were imprisoned, never to be seen again.

There are two water buffalo on that boat!

Afternoon tour to the waterfall


On the way back to Luang Prabang, we stopped at another village. Again, there are people everywhere trying to sell their weavings to the tourists. .

This must be a good source of income for the villagers, but its impact on culture concerns me.

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