6/2: My last full day in Laos

I hate rushing, and I hate having a schedule. And now I have both. With my commitment to my school to check out Turkey as a possible location for a country of study in the future, and then with my son going to Israel for the Ultimate Frisbee Peace Camp (Natan is a minor, so I have to be there at the airport to pick him up), I realized that I am running out of time, and so I have been moving faster than I am used to or comfortable with. I just arrived in Vientiane yesterday, and then I bought a flight to Phnom Penh on the 3rd (I wanted to leave on the 4th, but there were no seats left, and there were only two seats left on the 3rd, so I bought one) and then another ticket from Bangkok to Istanbul on June 17th, which gives me less than two weeks in Cambodia. But this now gives me three weeks in Turkey before I have to be in Israel, so maybe I can do my school business in that time, and not return to Turkey after Israel. Anyway, today is my only full day in Vientiane, so I have done a lot of sight seeing.

There is a lot of wealth in Vientiane. You see it in the beautiful monuments and vats (Buddhist temples), the modern buildings and new construction, and the fancy new cars (I even saw one Rolls Royce). There is also a lot more police presence - on street corners directing traffic, and in front of banks and other fancy buildings, as well as international buildings, like the UN Building.

Vat (not "wat" as in Thailand) Sisaket, the oldest temple in Vientiane, built in 1818.

Outside the Vat (they really like gold paint here in Laos)

Buddhas surrounding the Vat

Buddha

Another vat (I don't know the name, I just wandered upon it)

Unidentified vat

Monks and umbrellas

Patousay (Victory Monument) built in 1958

Ho Pra Keo, once the Royal Temple of the Lao monarchy, built in 1565, it is now a museum.

Luang Stupa, built in 1566, is 45 meters tall

Vat at Luang Stupa

As I was wandering around the vat at Luang Stupa, I came upon this monk, chanting, so I sat and listened. Even though I didn't know what he was saying, the rhythm of his voice was relaxing and peaceful. I meditated a bit with my Tibetan prayer beads. When he was finished, he invited me over.

He had a lot to say to me, even though he spoke no English. He showed me his "prayer book," made out of bamboo strips, I think. I think he told me that the language was not Lao, but one only the monks learn to read. He pointed to the book and to his robe, then he pointed to my shirt and shook his head "no."

He smiled with his whole being. I love monks. I thought about the difference between truth and Truth. I have, for years, struggled with the idea of faith, wanting it but thinking I would never have it. But I realized as I listened to the monk that faith had emerged into my reality, without my even realizing it. I know that there are things that I believe are True, without needing to justify or rationalize. I have faith in the underlying connection of all life (Oneness). I have faith that compassion is the route to peace. I have faith that when we are guided by our heart (thinking an acting from that place of connection), our thoughts and actions permeate out into the universe and help to make this world a better place, even if we don't see the results of those thoughts are actions.

History:
When I first arrived in Lao, I was feeling pretty "naked," being a history teacher and knowing almost nothing about Laos. So here is what I learned pf the history of Laos, from Lonely Planet guide book.

Early History: There is evidence of human habitation for ten thousand years.

Pretty early but not quite so early history: When the Mongol power spread throughout China, it pushed the Austro-Thai people southward. Lao was part of the Northern Thai kingdom of Sukhothai in the mid 13th century. In the 14th century, the conflict between the Northern Thai kingdom of Sukhothai and the Southern Thai kingdom of Ayuthaya, allowed the Lao warlord Chao Sa Ngum, with the help of the Khmer army, to consolidate Lao in 1353. He named the kingdom Lan Vang Hom Khao, Land of A Million Elephants. Oun Heuan, his son, married Thai princesses from both Thai kingdoms, consolidating the kingdom. His reign lasted for 43 years. With his death, the country divided into factions, resulting in 100 years of warring. In 1520 King Phothisarat took the throne, and moved the capital to avoid the aggression from Burma. His son, Setthathirat, took the throne in 1550. His disappearance in 1571 resulted in another 60 years of warring factions. In 1637 King Suriya Vongsa took control, and ruled for 57 years, the longest in Lao history. This period was regarded as “the golden years.” With his death in 1694, Lao split into three kingdoms.

Under Foreign control: From 1763 through 1769, the Burmese army took Northern Lao. In 1778 the Thai army took Southern Lao. By the late 19th century, almost all of Lao was controlled by Thailand. At that time, the French convinced the puppet ruler in Luang Prabang to ask for protectorate status.

French Rule: The treaties of 1893 and 1907 between Thailand and France gave France control of all Thai-controlled territories in Laos. All the Lao kingdoms were now consolidated under the French, which gave the name Laos. The present Laos borders took shape in 1896-7 through a joint commission of Great Britain, China and France. Laos was never very important to France. The French deemed the Mekong River “unnavigable.” In 1940 there were only 600 French citizens living in Laos, and only 1% of French Indochina exports came from Laos.

WWII and the beginning of the independence movement: During WWII and the Japanese occupation of Laos, there was more local autonomy. Before the end of the war, the Japanese forced the French installed Laos King Sisauang to declare Laos' independence. The Prime Minster and Viceroy Prince Phetsarat, not trusting the king, formed the Lao Issara (Free Lao) resistance movement.

Return of France and Independence: In 1945 with the return of France to Laos, Prince Phetsarat was relieved of all duties, and Laos was declared a Protectorate of France again. Prince Phetsarat formed The Committee of the People, which drew up a new constitution claiming independence. King Sisauang refused to sign it, and he was deposed by the National Assembly. In 1946, the king changed his mind and supported Lao Issara. He was reinstated as king in April, 1946. Two days later, the French and Lao guerillas took Vientiane, smashing Lao Issara. Prince Phetsarat fled to Thailand, and with him came the government in exile, with him as the Regent. The brutality of the French forces drove many of the Lao people towards Ho Chi Minh and the communists. Later in 1946 the French were willing to cede autonomy, they invited Lao Issara into formal negotiations, but by this time, Lao Issara was split into three groups: 1) Prince Phetsarat refused, 2) Prince Souvanna Phouma, a half brother, wanted to negotiate, and 3) Prince Souphanouvang, another half brother, wanted to work out a deal with Ho Chi Minh and the Viet Minh. The French proceeded with negotiations, and in 1953 Laos was granted full sovereignty by France.

The rise of communism: In the meantime, Prince Souphanouvang went to Hanoi to gain Viet Minh support. In 1950 the Viet Minh supported Free Lao Front (FLF), founded in Eastern Lao to fight the French. In 1953-4, the Lao government created a constitutional monarchy along the European model, and was ruled by the French educated elite. The Lao resistance in the countryside grew. The US government, attempting to stem communist growth, poured aid into Lao. The Viet Minh supported communists formed the Lao Patriotic Front (LPF). In 1957 the LPF and the Royal Lao Government (RLG) agreed to a coalition government. In the 1958 National Assembly election, the LPF gained a lot of votes, which led to a right-wing reaction, arresting LPF ministers. The coalition government dissolved, leaving the government in the hands of the right wing military officers, supported by the US. Then in 1959 fighting broke out between the two sides. The US sent in more aid, especially military aid and special forces. Then in 1960, a coup, led by Kong Se, seized Vientiane. US supported General Phoumi Novasan attacked Vientiane, and then took control in a CIA rigged election. The USSR supplied the resistance, which still controlled Northern and Eastern Laos. To avoid a super power confrontation, the Geneva conference of 1961-2 set up agreements for a neutral Laos. The US withdrew all "advisers," but the 7000 Viet Minh ground troops ignored the Geneva Conference agreements and stayed in Eastern Laos.

The American/Vietnam War from 1964-1973: During the US bombing missions in Northern and Eastern Laos to stop the spread of communism, a great many civilians were killed. Laos became the most heavily bombed nation, on a per capita basis. By 1971 China also got involved, with a 6000 to 7000 air defense force, mostly along the "Chinese Road." In 1973 the US agreed to withdraw from Vietnam, and reached a cease fire agreement in Laos. The country was divided into PL and non-PL zones, with the communists controlling 11 of the 13 provinces. In 1975, with the rapid fall of Saigon, the PL forces crushed the US-backed forces. On August 23rd, 1975 the PL forces took Vientiane. Kaysome Phomvihane, a long time communist, became prime minister, until his death in 1992, when his deputy prime minster, Khamtay Siphandone took over. He was elected President in 1996.

Communist Laos: The first two years of the Lao People's Revolutionary Party (LPRP) were harsh, with "accelerated socialism" - rapid reduction of the private sector and a steep increase in agricultural collectivization. The practice of Buddhism was severely curtailed. 40,000 people were sent to "re-education" camps, and 30,000 people were imprisoned following the 1975 takeover (other estimates were as high as 160,000 people). Thousands of people fled the country. By mid 1979 reforms were enacted as the harsh policies led to a loss of support among the peasants. By 1989 all the camps were reported closed and the prisoners released, though at least 30 officials from the former Royal Government are believed to still be in custody. USSR's glasnost and perestroika policies contributed to reforms in Laos, though there is still an ongoing power struggle between the hard-liners and the reformers within the communist party. There has been sporadic anti-government activity, but none since 2000.