Tuesday, June 8, 2010

6/8: First Day at the Angkor Temples

I spent my first fabulous day at the Angkor temples. I had no idea how large the area is and how many temples there are. I bought a pass for three non-consecutive days, so I am taking the day off today. The guest house where I am staying offers free bicycles, and we are only about 10 kilometers from the temples, but I must have biked 40 or 50 kilometers yesterday. I was away for almost 10 hours, and I haven't even seen the most spectacular sights yet - Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom. This place is amazing!

The History of The Angkorian Era (from Siem Reap Angkor Visitor's Guide):
Angkor means "Capitol City"or "Holy City." At its height it had a population of over one million people, and the King held sway over the area of modern Cambodia, as well as much of Thailand, Vietnam and Laos.

The area had been inhabited since the neolithic era, but the seeds of Angkorian civilization were sown in the first century AD, when the Indian culture took hold of Southeast Asia. The newly Indianized princely states were often no larger than a fortified city. Over time, the warring between them led to larger states, and eventually into the Kingdom of Funan, in the area of present day southern Vietnam and Cambodia.

Funan went into decline in the later 6th century as the state of Chendla, from northern Cambodia, grew. It flourished for a short time. Isanavarman I was the third and last king of a unified Chendla before it disintegrated into smaller states. It was briefly reunited under Jayavarman I in the mid 7th century, but fell apart with his death.

Jayavarman II, the first king of the Angkorian era, was a warrior who subdued the Khmer states and unified them in 802AD. 30 years after his death King Indravarman I constructed Preah Ko, the first Angkorian temple, in Roluos, about 8 miles from Angkor, in honor of Jayavarman II. His son, King Yasovarman I, built the first major temple in Angkor, where he moved the capitol. An era of territorial, commercial, and political expansion followed, and major monuments were constructed. Under King Suryavarman, in the early 12th century, the empire was at its political and territorial apex. Angkor Wat was constructed as the state temple, and possibly his funeral temple.

In 1177 Angkor was attacked and captured by the Cham empire, and held for 4 years until Jayavarman VII drove the Cham from the capitol. In 1181 he broke almost 400 years of tradition and made Mahayana Buddhism the state religion. He immediately began Angkor's most prolific building period - hundreds of temples in less than 40 years. No further grand monuments were built after his death in 1220. Jayavarman VIII reverted back to Hinduism and many Buddhist images were defaced. Buddhism returned after his death, but switched from Mahayana to Theravada Buddhism. As the Thai kingdom of Ayuthaya grew in power, the capitol was moved deeper into Cambodia to Phnom Penh in 1451, ending more than 600 years in the Siem Reap area.

I visited 6 temples my first day: Ta Prohm, Banteay Kdei, Ta Keo, Ta Nei, Thommanom, and Preah Khan.

Ta Prohm was one of Jayavarman VII's first major temples. It is known as the "jungle temple" because, as the Lonely Planet guide book described it, "It is being swallowed by the jungle." It was built in 1186 and dedicated to Jayavarman's mother. It was originally constructed as a Buddhist temple. It is now one of the most famous temples due to a scene from Angelia Jolie's Tomb Raider film being shot here.











My friends Jakob and Tina, who I first met in India, then again in Hanoi, and now here.

Banteay Kdei was also built by Jayavarman VII in the late 12th century. It originally was constructed as a Buddhist temple, though many of the Buddhist images were defaced in the 13th century.







Ta Keo was built in the late 10th century by Jayavarman V. This Hindu - Shiva temple was known as "Mountain with golden Peaks" and is over 50 meters high.



Ta Nei is another jungle temple. It is in much rougher shape than most of the temples, still in a semi-ruined state. This Buddhist temple was built by Jayavarman VII in the mid 12th century.




There I am

Thommanom was built by Suryavarman II in the late 11th century. It was a Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva and Vishnu.





Preah Khan was built by Jayavarman VII in the late 12th century. It originally served as a Buddhist monastery and school, serving over 1000 monks. It also served for a short time as the residence for King Jayavarman VII.












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