May13th: Mike's village

May 13th (written by Eli):

Today we went to Mike’s village (he is our tour operator). The village lays about 40 km outside of Hanoi, but feels like another world. Our first stop was a local market where we drank fresh sugar cane juice and made friends with the local farmers. I bought some pumpkin seeds thinking that they were for eating. I asked Mike why the saleswomen were all laughing as I handed them out to the kids and he replied, “those are uncooked seeds for planting, not eating.” I wondered why they were a bit soft. We continued our village tour which included the grave yard, where we saw Mike’s ancestors. He shared that his family were among the first to settle this village a thousand years ago! Next stop, watering the pigs. With a garden hose we took turns spraying the pigs. They loved it—“they,” being the pigs…and the students!

We were greeted at Mike’s house by his beautiful wife, Hi, who spent the morning preparing a meal for all of us and the nine North Vietcong Vets. The panel of vets shared their stories. Their forgiveness for the Americans was humbling. As one student so astutely pointed out in a reflection afterwards, “The NVC were greeted as heroes, allowing them to process the war with pride. Whereas the American soldiers were pariahs, and processed with shame and guilt.” Above all, their forward-thinking mentality and overwhelming joy provided an incredible connection with our students. At one point they asked the students who had a family member in the American War to stand. The panel then applauded those kids. In celebration of this connection we sang, ate and drank. 

Mike's Ancestors

"watering the pigs," my favorite activity in Mike's village

Mike's father with Ha

The Vietnam Vets with all of the students

The Vietnam Vets with the students who had family members who were American Vets

another use of the guest bedroom

students eating in Mike's kitchen

Paul, one of the parent chaperones, with a Vietnam Vet

Mike's wife Hai, and their new son, Quan