Sunday, June 13, 2010

6/11: Last Day in Siem Reap


In the morning of my last day in Siem Reap, and my last day of my three-day pass, I road my bicycle 13 kilometers to the southeast to see the "Romous group" of temples.

Romous is now a little village, but more than a thousand years ago it was the site of the Angkorian capitol city. There is something very provocative about these ancient ruins amidst this village setting. Unlike the more famous Angkorian temples to the north of Siem Reap, there are very few tourists that visit these temples. Though the ruins themselves are not spectacular, the peaceful village setting made it a wonderful morning.

Preah Ko was built during the reign of Indravarman II in the late 9th century. It was the first temple built by Indravarman I in the old capitol city of Hariharalaya.




There were a number of children playing some sort of "hide and seek"game on the temple site.



I next rode my bike to Bakong, which was also built during the reign of Indravarman II in the late 9th century (though the central tower was possibly added later by Vasovarman II). Bakong was the state temple at the capitol city of Hariharalaya, dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. This five-tiered pyramid, symbolizing Mount Meru, was the first significant "temple mountain."

Moat surrounding Bakong

There is an active wat on the Bakong site. This is the building housing the monks, overlooking the moat.

First significant "temple mountain"




Apsara

This beautiful deaf girl begs at the temple, then gives you a flower ring

My flower ring

Then afterward I road my bicycle as far as I could on the dirt road through little villages back to Siem Reap.



During my last evening in Siem Reap I was invited by Kachhel to eat dinner with his family.

Kachhel and his family: youngest daughter Rachna, age 19, middle daughter Chantrea, age 20, wife Sokha, and Kachhel

We had a delicious meal of fried fish, sour soup, and stir fried greens.

Me with Kachhel's family, including his niece (4th from the left, and his god-daughter (furthest right). Being the oldest surviving family member of the Khmer Rouge, Kachhel takes care of his entire extended family. His niece is living with him as she goes to university in Siem Reap. His god-daughter has been living with him for ten years now. Her family was known by Kachhel's mother-in-law during the reign of the Khmer Rouge. Her father was killed by the Khmer Rouge, and as her mother sank into depression and could no longer care for her daughter, Kachhel took her into his household. "She is one of my daughters now," he told me.

My favorite places in the Angkorian temple complex: Ta Prohm (jungle temple), Terrace of the Leper King (beautiful, deep bas-relief carvings), bike ride on Angkor Thom's surrounding wall, Preah Khan (I don't know, I just really liked it), Bayon (huge Buddha-of-compassion heads), and of course, Angkor Wat.

I am very excited for the opportunity to visit Turkey and Israel next, but it forced me to rush more quickly through Laos and Cambodia than I liked. I will definitely have to come back to these countries again.

Angkor Wat and pond reflection

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