McCleod Ganj, Dharamsala

I have now been in McCleod Ganj, The Tibetan refugee Capitol in India, just up the hill from Dharamsala, for three days. Luckily for me, the Dalai Lama is here now, and he just completed four days of teachings. Each day the teachings would go from 9 to 11AM and then again from 1 to 3PM. I arrived in McCleod Ganj on the afternoon of his second day of teachings, so I missed it, but was able to participate in the final two days. It is such a blessing to be here for this event.

Yesterday, day three of the teachings, started with questions and answers. The first question was about whether it was okay to follow teachings from the different schools of Tibetan Buddhism, or should one choose just one school to follow. After a really long answer by the Dalai Lama (he is referred to here as "His Holiness" or HH in writing), the second question was, "What should one do when one feels sleepiness after a really long answer?" His Holiness replied, "Enjoy yourself, but don't snore, for it will disturb the people around you."

The third question was about whether one would obtain negative karma from spaying dogs to help keep the population down. HH talked about the small picture and the big picture, and gave an example of the human population, how there are already six billion humans. A smaller quantity but higher quality life is better, and he went on to discuss the injustice of the widening gap in the standard of living. And then he told another joke. He had the opportunity to visit Japan recently, and the food he was served was of very high quality, but the portions were so small, "like a decoration. So when food is served, quantity is also important."

Much of what HH talked about I didn't understand: the four stages of this and the 3 steps to that, the five strengths, the 7 fold path to enlightenment, and the 8 fold noble path, etc. But there was one part I really liked. It was in reference to the third noble truth: Once you understand the nature of suffering, you realize it has no intrinsic, independent existence. Thus, it is all a delusion and therefore, there is nothing to overcome.

During the teachings many of the monks are kept really busy. Half way through the morning session they come around with butter tea. Then in between the two sessions they serve lunch of rice and dahl to everyone (and there most have been over a thousand people there). Then half way through the afternoon session they serve tea again, but this time it is sweet massala chai. Also, during both the morning and afternoon sessions, 50 and 100 rupee notes ($1 & $2 notes) are handed out to all of the monks. I think the most special thing about being here, besides just being in HH's presence (I was within 10 to 15 feet of him a couple of times as he walked in and walked out), is seeing all the Tibetans and how they respond to HH's presence, the way they prostrate themselves, and the devotion they hold for him. I love the old Tibetans the best, their dark, deeply wrinkled skin and shining eyes.

A view of the hill top of McCleod Ganj. It has grown so much in the 25 years since I was last here, but it still has the same wonderful feel.

A "mani stone" near the Dalai Lama's monastery, where he gave the teachings.

It is so nice being around Tibetans and Tibetan monks all day long. They are the sweetest people.

Suzanne, my sister twin friend I first met while trekking in Nepal. We visited a Monastery on the hill outside of McCleod Ganj.