3/5 in Ruteng

Three hours from Labuan Bajo, on one of the curviest roads ever, up and down through mountains and valleys, I arrived in Ruteng, in central west Flores. The scenery looked like a set from King Kong - jungles, steep mountains, volcanoes, and rice terraces, all in every shade of green.

Ruteng seems larger than Labuan Bajo, though at the bank where I tried to change $100, I created quite a scene, carrying so much money. The people here look somewhat like Australian aborigines, with kinky, black hair (is that adjective politically uncorrect?) instead of straight, black hair like the Indonesians to the west.

Flores is more expensive than I planned. I had heard that exchange rates weren't good here, so I changed $400 in Bali, budgeting $20 a day. After one week, I have $15 a day left (though I did some expensive things my first week - $50 excursion to see the Komodo dragons on Kinca island, and the 4 days on Kenawa island snorkeling cost me $25 a day).

The hotel and guest house prices have been very expensive on Flores, two to three times the prices listed in Lonely Planet. And even with empty rooms, they will not negotiate. Two teenagers wanted to practice their English with me after I rejected the first hotel. And I am lucky that they did, for it was dark and I had no idea where I was. They led me to three other hotels before I finally succumbed to the exorbitant price of $11 for a room with the bathroom down the hall. I took them for martabak afterward. Neither had ever eaten it, for they have no money (even though it only costs $1). I will meet them again today at 5PM for a tour of their town.

It just wouldn't be right without a laundry picture