July 7th through 10th: Nong Khiow

I just returned to Luang Prabang after 9 days in the "wilderness," meaning no internet access. It will take me a little while to catch up.

July 6th: last day in Luang Prabang

balloon man on the bike bridge (last photo from Luang Prabang)

July 7th: Road to Nong Khiow (4 hours north of Luang Prabang)

 We are constantly in relationship - the people we meet, the car we are in, the new town we visit. And the foundation of relationship is honesty - accepting what is. It does no good wishing for air conditioning in the back of a stuffy, overcrowded minivan if there is no working air conditioning. Accept what is. Be honest in the relationship as to what is, not what you wish it to be.

sausage and laundry in Nong Khiow

I am staying at the same guest house that I stayed at three years ago - Sunrise guest house - the first guest house on the left as you cross the bridge. My room is closest to the bridge and level with it. I sit on my balcony and watch the pedestrians and motorbikes cross. An orange-robed monk. A group of Lao women. Three kids, each smaller than the next, pushing a stroller. The middle child teases the youngest, who squeals with laughter. I have seen a lot of young children taking care of younger children. I haven't seen any sibling fighting. I wonder if we are doing something wrong in the West - relinquishing responsibility so that all focus is on the parents, and not on their responsibility for each other.

East of the bridge is the "travelers' ghetto" - guest houses, restaurant, an ATM (which wasn't here three years ago). Two restaurants serve Indian food. A number of restaurants have Indonesian food on the menu - nasi goreng (fried rice), mee goreng (fried noodles). There are a couple of eco-tourism shops offering 1-day or 2-day excursions: waterfall, trekking, kayaking.

Nong Khiow and bridge - view from my balcony

laundry in Nong Khiow

view of my guest house (first one on the right). Rooms ranged in price from 40,000 kip (about $5.50) to 60,000 kip (about $8).  I splurged.

the "traveler ghetto" east of the bridge

July 8th:
I went on a two hour bike ride this morning. Beautiful countryside. Slow moving mud-colored Mekong flows by. Steep mountains. Lush green everywhere. Hardly any traffic on the road. My first rice terraces this trip. Kids. Lots of very friendly kids. "Sa bai dee" (hello) constantly yelled at me. A 10 or 11 year old boy getting a lesson on driving a tractor. Lots of laundry. Thatched roofed houses, and some larger, cement structures. A lot of young boys (15 to 18 years old) on motor scooters. A little three year old boy wandering up the road, singing a song, as the women at his house watch and laugh. 

wat and monk laundry on my morning bike ride

my first rice field

corn drying on the road

I went on an afternoon bike ride after a hard rain. The air is still cool. A slight breeze. The stifling heat broken, at least for the moment. The bike ride was beautiful - an undulating road through cliff-like mountains, lush green hillsides, a slight rain mist in the air. Clouds hanging on the mountains. It was breathtaking. 

July 9th:

Nong Khiow village in the early morning

my river

 I spend my days on my bike. Every direction is spectacular.

Morning bike ride east.

village laundry

Afternoon bike ride west

children on the bridge in Nong Khiow

the Indian restaurant where I have spent every meal

July 10th: morning walk to the caves
I walked to the caves this morning - a half hour each way. Walking is my preferred pace - slows everything down.

 At the caves I was toured around by two little urchins - so sweet. They held my hands during the slippery parts.

my excellent guides at the cave